Montpellier – “Tamarillos”

On Monday, I had lunch at Philippe Chapon's "Tamarillos" restaurant, appropriately located at #2, Place du Marche aux Fleurs in Montpellier.

Pierre, though not much more than 40 years old, has had a strong career before starting his own restaurant in Montpellier. He trained as a patisserie chef, and was the French Champion chef in desserts twice, and worked in some amazing kitchens through his early career. His own restaurant is small in size, and nicely suited to turning out perfectionist cuisine that is inventive, delicious, and refreshingly lively in flavor.

I just had the lunch menu at this tasting – I am planning to go back Thursday evening for the full degustation menu.

Here are some notes from the menu – I will list them in order – photos are above, hopefully in the same order as the notes. Sorry, again just my iphone camera was on this jaunt, and it could be better as a camera.

Amuse Bouche: Foie Gras Vanille – This was a delicate slice of foie gras terrine, scented gently with vanilla, textured perfectly on toast points. Perfect!

Entrée: Scallops, seared and served with a warm spinach salad, pistachio, and fresh flowers. This had a balsamic reduction over the top – the flowers were impossible for me to identify, but they looked almost as if they could be arugula flowers, except that they were blue. This was delicious – the scallops were perfect. I had heard that all the French fisherman are on strike because of diesel prices, but Philippe knowingly said, "not ALL fishermen" so apparently he has a source that is happy to keep good clients well provided.

Plat: Veal Cutlet, Chestnut puree, sauce a l'Orange: This was incredible – delicate, fragrant, almost honeyed in aroma. There were tiny white flowers dusted over the surface of the veal, I would have sworn that they were Olive flowers – their nectar was beautiful and intense without being intrusive in the experience of the food. The orange sauce was light, zesty, just barely sweet, and delicious. Veal prepared just to rare – perfect.

Refreshment: Les eaux des Fleurs – (waters of flowers) – this was a light infusion of sorrel and hibiscus flowers, almost like a cold tea, slightly sweet and a perfect palate cleanser.

Desert: Tarte Vanille, dry Poires - this was great too. A classic, rich vanilla tarte, with crisps of pear as an accent. Light, delicious, perfect.

Café: a chocolate and hazelnut crisp served with the café. Sugars for the café are infused with various flowers. Perfect and delicious.

Notes on a few wines that I had with the meal:

Had a perfect rose to start with – not sure of the producer now…

2004 Chateau Puech-Haut, Saint Drezery – Deep color, dark chocolate character, aged tannin character, fruit receding towards dried fruits, plums, figs; very good wine.

2006 Chateau de Cazeneuve, "Les Calcaires", Pic St Loup – Deep color, fig & dust, great tannin, a bit of heat which this wine will certainly grow into. Fruit is secondary to herbal, chocolate, rich dried characters. Love the dusty, cocoa texture.

Mas Amiel "Cuvee Special" 10 Ans D'Age, Maury Appellation Controllee – This was a Banyuls-type dessert wine. It was served chilled. The label says that it is aged for 1 year outdoors in glass bottles, and then another 9 years in barriques prior to bottling. Simply GREAT. Chocolate / Tobacco / preserved cherries. Great residual tannins – this wine really held onto them throughout the slight sweetness and through the aging.

This is a must-visit for any serious foodie whom finds themselves near Montpellier.

Tamarillo's
2 Rue du Marche aux Fleurs
34000 Montpellier, FRANCE
04 67 600 600 phone
04 67 600 601 fax
www.tamarillos.biz