The Girl & The Fig- Sonoma

I was in Sonoma County for winery business the latter part of last week, and had opportunity to dine at The Girl & the Fig; on the town square in Sonoma, (110 West Spain Street, Sonoma California (707) 938 3634.)

This is Sondra Bernstein’s comfortable wine-country bistro, casual and homey; informed by traditional French bistro fare and hearty country cooking. The wine list is all Rhone varieties, (with the exception of a few bubblies…) and well chosen, with none of the usual cop-outs, or uninspired name-dropping. Several of our hometown favorites were represented, including several selections each from Robert Hall in Paso Robles, & Alban Vineyards; next door to our own vineyards here in Edna Valley. They even had two selections that were purchased at the Hospice du Rhone barrel auction, and bottled specifically for The Girl & The Fig, including a Jaffeur’s Syrah from my friend Michael Larner’s vineyard in the Santa Ynez Valley, of Santa Barbara County.

Nestled in a comfortable location below the Sonoma Hotel, it has the added bonus of being just 2 blocks from the excellent Friday morning Farmer’s Market. The menu certainly seems to draw, in substance or inspiration, on the marvellous local produce on display there each week.

We started with the “Tower of Cheese,” a selection of several local and international examples of the art of fromage. In addition to the cheeses we were served several thin slices of charcuterie, as well as a fig paste, and a chutney of onion. Here are a few of the selections we were presented with:

Vella Dry Jack Reserve- This is an excellent local Sonoma cheese. It is no newcomer to the artisinal cheese movement, indeed it has remained basically as-is for decades. Similar in grain to a Parmigino, it has a bit more richness, less salty, more earthy. According to the table notes, the rind is cured with a mixture of vegetable oil, cocoa, and pepper.

Redwood Hill Boucheret- This was a domestic, bloomy-rinded goat’s milk cheese with a distinct sour-rich flavor, and a silky texture. Was quite good; but overshadowed by some of the drier cheeses we were tasting. I intend to order one of these cheeses and enjoy it further.

Fiscalini Bandaged Cheddar- I loved this cheese!! From Modesto, it had an amazing tang, and rich, full, nutty expression, almost like an aged Gouda from Holland. I bought a pound to bring home for KLC.

Pierre Robert- If you have not had this cheese, you have not experienced one of the most pleasurable, decadent experiences available to your palate, courtesy of our friend the cow. A rich, triple crème cheese, the menu stated that it is enriched with crème fraiche. Although this is a cheese that I am well acquainted with, it was a welcome presence on our cheese tower. Just another brilliant example that proves “fat equals flavor.”

Cypress Grove, “Pee-Wee Pyramid”- As its name implies, this is an exquisite goat’s milk cheese in the shape of a pyramid, (minus the chopped off tip…) From the makers of the fabulous Humbolt Fog, it is similar to the crumbly exterior portion of its famous sibling, with a great tangy flavor. Has layers of creamy and crumbly texture contrasts that makes it a beautiful cheese to served sliced on a plate or salad. This is another that I had to take home!

Ailene des Vignes- I did not have this cheese on our cheese tower, but was intrigued by the description on the cheese menu, and had to bring some home. “This Tome de Chevre is a white wine washed ‘drunken goat’ cheese. This is a small, artisan student-produced production- each wheel is numbered.” I found it to be fairly bland, safe, and uninteresting compared with some of the other really striking cheeses. Perhaps if I allow it to warm to room temperature, some of the aroma will come out of it, but it was not my favorite overall.

So enchanted by the cheeses we enjoyed at the beginning of the evening, I continued in a similar vein, with a charcuterie plate. Really great thin-sliced salami and thicker, dried Portugeese style chorizo. In addition, there was a pate of duck liver, coarser and more rustic than foie gras, but flavorful and quite a tasty match with the Syrah we were drinking with dinner.

I chose a small plate as my entrée course, the Duck Confit. It was amazingly tender and delicious, with a fall-off the bone richness and depth of flavor. The duck was served on a leaf of butter lettuce, with a lentil ragout, richly flavored with smoky bacon. This was a great dish for the rich Rhone varieties on the menu, and paired well with the Grenache we had on the table. This would be a stellar partner with a racier Pinot Noir; something to echo the earthiness of the duck, and cut through the richness with some acidity and persistance.

Dessert was a nice touch; pumpkin cheesecake, and a glass of Muscat Beaume de Venise. The cheesecake must have included some cheddar or gouda, or some other slightly pungent cheese that made a nice balance to the sweetness of the pumpkin. A bit of clove echoed the floral spice of the Muscat well. (Perhaps this was a bit of a sweetness overload, but I only get to do this once in a while…)

I definitely enjoyed the experience, great service, small cosy room, and food that will be remembered for a long, long time! Looks as though work will continue to bring me up to Sonoma with some regularity; I am looking forward to getting to know this great area better!