Tasting Notes- Burgundy & CA Pinot Noir

2003 Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley, ‘Olivet Lane Vineyard’ $54- Pleasant aromatics, orange rind and strong coconut oak lactone character. The weight of this wine is lighter than I am used to in Merry’s wines, and the oak treatment seems to have been tailored to a bigger wine. The result is a somewhat awkward mouthfeel, with oak tannins sticking out the edges of the wine a bit. Successful overall, despite the intense oak character.

2003 Capiaux, Santa Lucia Highlands, ‘Pisoni Vineyard’ $45- Pisoni is a very highly respected site in Monterey County’s beautiful strip of benchlands above the Salinas River, near Greenfield and Soledad. Unfortunately, this wine does not convey that beauty well. The slightly aldehydic nose made me suspect neglect, or misused micro-oxygenization, and in the mouth, this wine tastes exactly like store-bought tannins. I don’t know very much about this winery, or their winemaking methods, but according to their website they don’t add anything at all to their wines. If you love big, dark, anonymous, obnoxious wines, this may be one to try. If you truly love Pinot Noir, in all of its Burgundian elegance, look elsewhere.

2003 Fritz, Russian River Valley $29- Love the aromatics, campfire, sweet spiced oak & vanilla. The structure of the wine is somewhat racy at first, but supported by lots of pretty fruit and spice character. This was one of my favorites of the tasting; unmistakably California Pinot Noir, and definitely delicious.

2003 Gary Farrell, Russian River Valley, ‘Russian River Selection’ $34- Aromatics were somewhat sulfurous at first, but blew back toward minerals, light berry and a juniper freshness. Felt thin and incomplete in the mouth, perhaps a slow fermentation or some other problem? Not my favorite, but at the same time not undrinkable.

2003 Saintsbury, Carneros $26- Subtle aromatics, apple & beetroot earthiness. Structurally a bit severe at this point, sharp tannins on the attack that are not supported by midpalate richness. Although the above does not read like a huge endorsement, the whole works together quite well, and it was actually one of my overall favorite wines of the tasting. Someone mentioned that they produce 26,000 cases of this bottling, so you have to applaud that kind of availability at this quality level, especially for Pinot Noir!

2002 Domaine Vincent Girardin, Santenay 1er cru, ‘Les Gravieres’ $39- Devoid of aroma, either positive or negative. Thin, minty, herbal on the palate, with only sharp, gritty tannin on the attack, a muddled mess in the mid-mouth. Suspect Brettanomyces.

2003 Domaine Anne Gros, Grand Cru Clos Vougeot, ‘Le Grand Maupertui’ $160- The fruit and oak are complexed seamlessly in this wine, from the nose through to the finish. Rich, harmonious, supple, and absolutely likeable. This is a wine that seems simple on the surface, but promises more interest with time.

2003 Domaine Louis Jadot, Savigny-Les-Beaune 1er Cru, ‘La Dominode’ $35- Nothing worth noting in the nose at this point, thin, severe build. (Corked?)

2003 Domaine Du Comte Liger-Belair, Vosne-Romaneé, ‘La Colombiere’ $75- The single most interesting wine of this flight. The nose was pungent and powerful, expressing minerals, clove and hard-spice, and zest of orange, along with a powerful ‘marine’ freshness that persists onto the palate. Some fat in this wine, but compensated by the mineral intensity. Quite lovely.

2003 Domaine Christophe Perrot-Minot, Vosne-Romaneé, ‘Aux Champs Perdrix’ Vielles Vignes $153- Amazingly aromatic; sweet oak notes, brown sugar, iodine, Laphroiag, and the briny, marine aromatic again. Very fat on the palate; almost lacking in acidity. Tannin is persistent through the wine. A ‘tiramisu’ cocoa suggestion on the finish. Was not a favorite of mine early on, but as this wine opened, it revealed a lot of layers of complexity. (This vineyard is just slightly uphill from the world-famous Grand-Cru sites of La Romaneé, La Romaneé Conti, Romaneé Saint Vivant, and La Tache.)

2003 Robert Groffier Pere et Fils, Gevrey-Chambertin $70- Delicately scented with raspberry, melon, and strawberry. Harmonious on the palate, but lacking aroma and fruit intensity.