'Smithfield's Chicken 'N Bar-B-Q' Raleigh, North Carolina

I suddenly had to go to Raleigh, North Carolina this week, to meet with the largest synthetic cork manufacturer in the world, at their headquarters, in Zebulon, NC - they were interested in a production-scale closure trial that I have been working on for the past 2 years, and I met with their R&D team, and their enologists, whom were in visiting from Belgium.

I resolved firmly in my heart that I would sample North Carolina Bar-B-Q (I don't know the significance of this spelling, vs BBQ or Barbeque, but I trust that there must be a difference!) The way I understand it, North Carolina Bar-B-Q differentiates itself regionally from other styles in the following ways; it is always Pork based, apparently a shredded shoulder, or roast of some sorts; the sauce is not tomato based, not sweet, but rather consists of vinegar, peppers, and spices.

It was brought to my attention by my friend, Bob Carruthers, who moved with his family from SLO to Chapel Hill (they used to be our next door neighbors,) that there are actually two distinct BBQ (abbreviating, apologies if I offend someone's sense of Bar-B-Q' propriety...) styles within North Carolina - the 'Eastern' which is very plainly prepared pork with just a little vinegar sauce, and the Western, or 'Lexington' style, which only uses pork shoulder, and has a sweeter, slightly more tomato-based sauce. Tons more about North Carolina BBQ in this paper titled "What is North Carolina-Style BBQ?" by H.Kent Craig.

In his paper, Craig says, "It's easier to be a Master Chef at the New York Academy Of Culinary Arts & Sciences, it's easier to be be a Professor Of Sanskrit at the Sorbone, it's easier to be a Master Steak Chef at Blackie's in DC, than it is to be a Master BBQ Chef Of Eastern-NC-BBQ. That's because Eastern-NC-Style BBQ is plain whole-hog pork meat, with just the tiniest bit of vinegar-based "sauce" which isn't a sauce at all, applied as a moistening agent. Eastern-Style BBQ is usually one of two grades; either excellent, or close to inedible."

I had expressed my interest in exploring NC BBQ to one of the research scientists, whom also happened to be a native of the area. One of the places that I had copied out of my 'Road Food' book, called 'Murray's Barbecue' was on my list of places to visit, but I still asked for a recommendation. I was told that Smithfield's, despite being a chain, did a very credible, authentic job.

The next day, when I went in search of Murray's, I was disappointed. (I later found out that it closed, back in 2005.) I could not locate it anywhere, and when I called the number listed, there was no answer. Fortunately, I remembered the Smithfield's recommendation, and found several listings within 10 miles of where I was. I chose the closest one on my GPS navigator, and was there in just a few minutes.

I ordered the Chicken 'N Bar-B-Que Platter, and a glass of Sweet Tea - when the food arrived, it was a mass (see photo above!) of shredded, tender pork shoulder (almost like carnitas, but not fried - moist and roasted and with authentic 'porky' flavor - YUMM!!!) Beside the pork was a mound of excellent, finely chopped coleslaw, and a pile of hushpuppies. Topping the plate were two pieces of crisply coated, peppery fried chicken.

The pork was great, I loved the spicy, tangy sauce, but you didn't need much to bring the flavor of the pork up. I can see why a sandwich, which usually would include the coleslaw heaped on top of the pork and bun, could be such a classic match up. The fried chicken was great, but I just couldn't finish all of the food, so I left most of the second piece of chicken, and some of the hushpuppies.

Sometimes I hear people say that we don't really have an American Cuisine. When faced with traditional food culture in the southern US, especially, I have to disagree. It is amazing, beautiful, and reassuring to see the intense regionalism, traditionalism, and pride with which BBQ in particular, and southern cooking in general is practiced.

Does anyone know what happened to Murray's? (4700 Old Poole Road, Raleigh) (I found out that it has closed.) Are there other suggestions of quality, traditional, or idiosyncratic BBQ, Bar-B-Que, or Barbeque that should be sought out in the future? (see this link for a great forum on current NC BBQ places.) How about Smithfield's? Do you think that I really got a fair taste of NC BBQ, or was that just commercialized, mediocre chain food? (It was still tasty!)

A link that I found, to a Carolina BBQ discussion board